Solved: Leggings

 

The best thing about making a pledge or taking a challenge may be that it pushes us to find out what’s possible if we stay within certain boundaries. For example: this winter, I found myself in need of some new warm leggings, and a couple of challenges I had in one form or another meant I needed to be creative about how I got them. The results were so good—almost certainly better than whatever I would have come up with without the challenge.

 

upcycled leggings 1

 

One of my wardrobe goals is to have enough of the right clothes for winter so that I’m cozy (in other words not always cold and therefore slightly grouchy). For the coldest months, it turns out that means wearing an extra warm layer under pants or a long skirt pretty much every day. I’ve already figured out that wool and silk are much warmer than cotton knits (plus I love everything else about wool). I’m still following my fabric-buying pledge from #1year1outfit (until a full year has gone by this summer), which meant I couldn’t hop online and order lovely wool fabrics from New Zealand, even if they are organic. There are a few totally beautiful made-in-USA wool knits out there, but let’s be honest, I also have a budget. I can’t afford to splurge on every project, and I don’t want to for something like this where I frankly don’t care too much what it looks like, as long as it feels good and works well.

I was thinking about going to the thrift store for something else, and somehow I got the idea that maybe if I found a big enough fine-gauge men’s sweater, I could make leggings out of that. Such, such a good idea!

My layout works like this: I cut off the waistband of the sweater, including a little bit above it for seam allowance, and save it for the waistband of the leggings. I flip the sweater inside out and trim off the seams as closely as I can to separate the front from the back. (After making so many hats from reclaimed cashmere, I am an expert at deconstructing sweaters.) Then I remove the sleeves, in this case leaving the sleeve seams intact as much as possible. The front and back often have fairly different shapes (and a lot of times different grainlines) so I separate them completely at the shoulders after the sleeves are off, and cut from them separately. I cut the top potion of the leggings pattern from the front and back of the sweater, however they best fit. The lower leg comes from the sleeves, utilizing the sleeve cuff as the ankle.

 

sweater to leggings drawing

 

I used the same Espresso Leggings pattern as my first custom fit pair—there’s no going back from custom fit! The lower arm of the sweater was actually a little smaller than the original cuff on my pattern, but it stretched to fit over my ankle just fine. I laid the folded leg pattern over the sleeve, and started to cut where the leg became smaller than the sleeve.

For sewing, I joined the lower leg to the upper leg flat, pressed the seam open, and sewed down the seam allowances for a non-bulky join. Just don’t forget to add a seam allowance to the upper and lower leg when you’re cutting.

As I sewed the inside leg seams, I just merged my seamline into the original seam of the sleeve when I got to that point.

 

upcycled leggings 2

 

Working on these, I thought a lot about stretch and recovery in knits. All the sweaters I used had about the same horizontal stretch as the fabric I bought for the very first pair; with 4” stretching to about 7”, or 1.75%, so I could use the same size pattern. The sweaters had almost no vertical stretch though, which made the first pair of sweater-cut leggings feel a bit shorter on top than I wanted, so I slashed the pattern and added ¼” vertically above and below the crotch point.

I ended up cutting the ribbing for waistband much shorter than the top of the leggings, since it could stretch much further. The ribbing alone wasn’t quite enough to hold the leggings up, although I loved how it looked. For the charcoal pair, I added wide elastic on top (it may possibly have come off a pair of Bryan’s boxers with worn fabric). This holds up the leggings no problem. The elastic has the recovery needed, but it actually won’t stretch as far as the ribbing, so I had to cut it a little longer. This can make the waist look a little wrinkly by itself, but it all stretches out smooth on the body.

For the second blue/periwinkle pair, I wanted to see if I could use slightly less wide/firm elastic, so I tried some of the bra-band kind from my stash, which is soft on one side, inside the ribbing. That works too, leggings stay up with no problem.

 

upcycled leggings 3

 

The third green sweater had a narrow hem instead of ribbing at the waist. I decided to use that as a casing for narrow elastic, cutting two sections from the waistband and catching the elastic in the seams. After wearing this pair a couple of times, the jury is still out on whether it could use slightly wider elastic/more pull inside the casing … but if so it would be easy enough to unpick the little vertical seams at the top and sew it in.

 

upcycled leggings 4

 

Overall, I’m super happy with how these turned out! I answered a few leftover questions from the first-ever pair; like would elastic be enough to hold them at the low-waist level I like (a resounding yes!) and would they work in 100% wool (a big yes again!). Despite the fact that the pattern recommends fabrics with Lycra or Spandex, I like the all-wool version much better (the green and grey pairs are Merino, and the periwinkle is cashmere). These float like a warm soft cloud just touching my skin. They feel amazing and don’t bind in any way. If I were dancing on stage in them, I might care that the knees look a little baggy by the end of the day, but since these are under-layers only, I don’t at all.

So I’m officially set on leggings for a few winters at least! We’ll see how these hold up. They should be fairly easy to patch if needed, since I have the pattern and scraps. I consider the used sweaters a sustainable material source, especially since I can utilize ones that have small stains or holes in them (the little stitched leaves on the green pair are covering former holes in the original sweater). Making leggings this way keeps me within my pledge and my budget. Plus they’re awesome.

If you want to try this, go for it! For my fairly-small-but-very-pair-shaped figure, I need to start with a men’s extra-large sweater to cut the pieces as illustrated. Of course, you can patchwork them a little more if needed. The green sweater was in really good shape (except for the holes), so I got it even though it was a little smaller. I ended up piecing in wedges at the inner thigh to make up for not having quite enough width across the sweater body. It worked fine, but it was a little mind-bending to make sure all the pieces had the right shape and seam allowance, so I don’t recommend it for your first try.

Happy stitching!

 

upcycled leggings 5

 

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13 thoughts on “Solved: Leggings

  1. Pingback: Some Thoughts About Sewing Leggings | Stale Bread into French Toast

  2. Genius idea! I love this so much, wish I’d come across it earlier this winter, but maybe spring cleaning will bring out some good sweater contenders at the thrift store. I’d love to try this for a pair of athletic leggings, because I’ve been wearing a lightweight wool top on my winter runs and it’s ideal for temperature regulation. I could see the patchwork idea working really well with the Aries leggings from Seamwork Magazine. Off to sketch this out and get back to work… !

    • Thanks! I know, by the time I make a few versions of something, test it out, photograph and post it, it’s usually about the end of the season for that thing … but I’ve decided to let that be, otherwise I’d probably never post it.

      If you make some athletic leggings from wool, I’d love to know how they turn out! There are a few patterns out there with interesting seams which could be really cool with two sweaters worth of fabric. I’m coming more and more to believe that synthetics are mostly hype, basically trying to emulate the properties of wool and silk … the natural version is usually still better!

  3. Really neat post. It actually made me want to try it. I really love the idea of the recycled men’s cashmere for fabric. I find it seriously annoying that nicely made men’s cashmere sweaters are so much less expensive than poorly made women’s cashmere sweaters. I wear one of Bob’s at home like a “boyfriend” tunic because it is fabulously warm and yes, light and soft as a cloud. None of my own sweaters feel like that one but the fit guarantees I won’t go anywhere in it.

    Kathy

    On Thursday, March 24, 2016, Stale Bread into French Toast wrote:

    > Tasha posted: ” The best thing about making a pledge or taking a > challenge may be that it pushes us to find out what’s possible if we stay > within certain boundaries. For example: this winter, I found myself in need > of some new warm leggings, and a couple of chall” >

    • Too funny! I have a big thrifted wool sweater that I throw on in the mornings to do yoga in my PJs etc. which Bryan commented today is “not sexy.” Ha! It’s warm and cozy and that’s all, and for now that’s fine with me.
      Weirdly I’ve found it easier to cut a whole pair of leggings from a big sweater than a whole smaller sweater, depending on the shape. But my favorite ever winter top is one I cut from a men’s cashmere sweater, with only a couple of little extra pieces needed. It’s definitely worth a try!

    • Yes! Maybe I just had a lucky streak, but it’s kind of crazy how many fine-gauge, quality sweaters were available in my town for these experiments. It doesn’t exactly reflect well on our society that we’re giving away tons of barely used cashmere and Merino … but it sure feels like an arbitrage on this end of it.

    • I really do think that I get some of my best ideas when there’s some kind of structure or restrictions to work in. And, it might be perfect timing for those of you in the southern hemisphere …

  4. Brilliant! I just got a beautiful pair of tall boots from my community clothing swap and I need something warmer than tights but skinnier than jeans (I don’t do super-skinny jeans) for the rest of the New England winter/spring. And then I can wear any skirt I please! This is just the ticket to feeling springy and warm! -Kimbersew

  5. Pingback: Last of the winter layers – Wardrobe Ecology

  6. This is absolute genius! I’ve been collecting cashmere sweaters from the thrift store with holes in them and I patch them up to make them look new again and I’ve been considering leggings but I had no idea how to approach it! Thank you so much for your informative post and I really hope you show up on google results because your blog is absolutely amazing!

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